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How Can I Lower My Heating Bill This Winter?

Oklahoma's heating bills climb the moment the furnace takes over from the AC. Here's where the money actually goes in a cold-weather home — and the free, cheap, and worth-it fixes that trim it, in that order.
TP Triple Play Home Services September 3, 2026
5 min read

The first real cold front of an Oklahoma fall does two things at once: it ends the debate about turning on the heat, and it starts the debate about the bill. Cooling and heating trade places as the biggest line item on your utility statement, and for a lot of homes the winter gas bill lands harder than the summer electric one ever did. The good news is that heating cost isn’t fixed. A meaningful share of it comes from things you can change — some for free this afternoon, some for the price of a filter, and a few that are worth planning for before the coldest weeks arrive.

Here’s how to think about it in order, cheapest fixes first.

Start with the free stuff

Before spending a dollar, there’s real money sitting in habits and settings.

  • Set back the thermostat when you’re asleep or away. This is the single biggest free lever for most homes. Dropping the temperature 7 to 10 degrees for the eight hours you’re in bed, and again while the house is empty during the day, cuts furnace runtime without you ever feeling cold. A programmable or smart thermostat does it automatically so you don’t have to remember. (One caveat below for heat pumps.)
  • Use the sun. Open curtains and blinds on south- and west-facing windows during the day to let free solar heat in, then close them at dusk to keep it from radiating straight back out through the glass.
  • Flip your ceiling fans to run clockwise on low. In winter that gentle updraft pulls the warm air that collects at the ceiling back down into the room, so you feel warmer at the same thermostat setting — especially in rooms with tall or vaulted ceilings.
  • Turn down the water heater a notch. Water heating is often the second-biggest energy user in the house. Many are set hotter than anyone needs; 120 degrees is plenty for most homes and trims standby losses all winter.
  • Mind the exhaust fans. A bathroom or kitchen fan left running can empty a house of warm air in about an hour. Run them only as long as you need, then shut them off.

The heat pump exception

If you heat with a heat pump instead of a gas furnace, the setback advice flips. Heat pumps are most efficient when they hold a steady temperature; a big manual setback forces them to recover fast, and that usually means firing the backup electric heat strips — which are exactly the expensive part you’re trying to avoid. With a heat pump, pick one comfortable setpoint and mostly leave it, or use a thermostat designed for heat pumps that eases the temperature back up gradually. Knowing which kind of system you have changes the whole strategy.

Then spend a little

A few low-cost moves punch well above their price.

  • Change the furnace filter. A clogged filter chokes airflow, and a furnace fighting for air runs longer and less efficiently to hit the same temperature. Check it monthly during heavy-use stretches and swap it when it looks gray. It’s the cheapest efficiency upgrade there is.
  • Seal the obvious drafts. Weatherstripping around doors, a door sweep on the threshold, and a bead of caulk around leaky window trim cost little and stop the warm air you’re paying for from leaking out. Foam gaskets behind exterior-wall outlets and switch plates plug a surprising number of small holes.
  • Reverse the flow at the fireplace. An open, unused damper is a chimney-sized hole venting heated air up and out. Keep it closed when there’s no fire, and consider a chimney balloon or draft stopper for a fireplace you rarely use.

Then look at the big picture

Some of the largest savings live in parts of the house you don’t see, and they’re worth planning for before the deep cold sets in.

Attic insulation is usually the highest-return improvement in an Oklahoma home. Heat rises, and a thin or unevenly settled layer of attic insulation lets it pour out through the ceiling all winter — the same weak spot that let summer heat pour in. Bringing it up to a proper depth pays you back every heating and cooling season for years.

Ductwork is the other hidden culprit. Ducts running through an unconditioned attic or crawlspace can leak a real fraction of your heated air into spaces you’re not trying to warm, so the furnace burns more fuel to make up the difference. Sealing and insulating those runs keeps the heat you paid for inside the living space.

And the furnace itself matters. A system that hasn’t been serviced drifts out of tune — a dirty flame sensor, a struggling blower, or burners that aren’t firing cleanly all cost efficiency you’re paying for in fuel. We took a fall call from a homeowner in the metro whose gas bill had crept well past the previous winter’s even though the weather was similar. The furnace still ran, but a heavy filter and a blower packed with a summer’s worth of dust had it running long, inefficient cycles to keep up. A cleaning, a fresh filter, and a look at the attic did more for the bill than any thermostat trick could. A heating tune-up in early fall catches that kind of quiet efficiency drain before the coldest, most expensive weeks arrive — and it’s the same visit that turns up safety issues on a mild day instead of a freezing night.

The bottom line

Lowering a winter heating bill isn’t one big move; it’s a stack of small ones done in the right order. Start free — set back the thermostat (unless you’re on a heat pump), use the sun, and run your fans in reverse. Then spend a little on filters, weatherstripping, and a closed damper. Then, if the bill still stings, look at the big-ticket, high-return work: attic insulation, duct sealing, and a furnace that’s actually tuned. Most homes have savings sitting in every one of those layers.

If your heating bill is climbing faster than the thermometer explains, Triple Play Home Services can find out why — from filters and ductwork to a full heating tune-up — across Edmond, Oklahoma City, and the surrounding metro. You’ll get flat-rate pricing you approve up front before any work begins, with no surprises. Call (405) 500-5333 to get on the schedule before the first hard freeze.

Frequently asked questions

What temperature should I set my thermostat to in winter to save money?
A common starting point is around 68 degrees while you're awake and home, then a setback of 7 to 10 degrees while you're asleep or out for the day. Every degree you drop over an eight-hour stretch shaves runtime off the furnace. The exception is a heat pump — big manual swings can kick on the expensive backup heat strips, so with a heat pump it's better to pick one comfortable setpoint and mostly leave it, or use a thermostat built for heat pumps that ramps back up gradually.
Does turning the heat way down while I'm out actually save money, or does the furnace just work harder to catch up?
For a standard gas furnace, setting back while you're gone saves money — the small burst of extra runtime to reheat is far less than the fuel you'd burn holding the house warm all day for nobody. The old 'it costs more to reheat' idea doesn't hold up for gas heat. Heat pumps are the one system where deep setbacks can backfire, because recovering the temperature often triggers auxiliary electric heat.
Why did my gas bill jump so much this winter compared to last?
Rate changes and a colder-than-usual stretch explain a lot of it, since heating cost tracks how many cold hours the furnace had to cover. But a sudden jump that outpaces the weather usually points to something on your end: a clogged filter, ductwork losing heat into the attic or crawlspace, a furnace that's overdue for a tune-up and running inefficiently, or extra heat escaping through gaps and thin attic insulation. If the spike doesn't match the forecast, it's worth investigating rather than just paying it.

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